“Of all the gin joints, in all the towns in all the world, she walks into mine” – an unforgettable line from Casablanca (1942), uttered by Rick (Humphrey Bogart) about Isla (Ingrid Bergman), remains one of the most evocative in cinematic history. It proved to be a precursor for the spread of gin in modern society. Gin has featured prominently in popular culture, whether it was in The Great Gatsby, Breakfast at Tiffany’s, Raymond Chandler’s novel The Long Goodbye (1953), Philip Larkin’s poem, Sympathy in White Major and even as James Bond’s Vesper Martini. It was frequently consumed Upstairs in Downton Abbey and the long reigning Queen Elizabeth II is said to be partial to it. A fondness for gin, which has been gaining ground as a cool, sophisticated drink, amply is reflected in popular culture globally. Of course, arguably its best-known version, G&T, or gin and tonic, was invented in India as a way to make the bitter tasting quinine – essential to cure malaria – palatable for British soldiers in the 19th century. So, it was a surprise for Anand Virmani, co-founder & CEO, Nao Spirits, to find that, despite the drink’s global popularity, there was no Indian craft gin brand. “The idea of introducing our own craft gin brand was built upon the growing excitement around the gin category around the world and the contrasting silence in India,” he says. “It seemed to us only natural that a product rooted in herbs and spices should have its best expressions from India, the ‘spice capital’ of the world. There was a major gap as far as the product itself was concerned. This was also coupled with the fact that none of the imported ‘quality’ products were actually affordable. We stepped in to correct this imbalance and create a fantastic quality, yet approachable gin brand.” Virmani’s other partners in the venture include Vaibhav Singh, with whom Virmani owns Perch, a bar in Delhi, besides Aparajita Ninan and Abhinav Rajput. Earlier this year, Nao Spirits raised $2 million in its Series A round of investment, taking its total funding to $5 million since inception. The current round of investment came from a boutique VC firm, existing investors, and family offices. Time to grow The team senses significant opportunity for growth, both in India and internationally. India is of course a country of brown spirits with whisky dominating the spirits market in India. Virmani, however, says a shift in the preference of the consumers has been noticed as urban Indians are gravitating towards gin as their go-to drink. According to Virmani, the gin market in India, about 1 per cent of the spirit segment, is dominated by the value and low-price category but the real growth is in the premium and standard segments currently dominated by imported brands, Local: 1.83 million cases (-12.4 per cent 5Y CAGR) and Imported: 66,000 cases (51.7 per cent 5Y CAGR). The Indian gin market is estimated to be about $278.5 million in terms of value in 2018. It is predicted to grow at a CAGR of 5 per cent during 2019-27 and is estimated to reach about $413.7 million by the end of 2027, according to a report by Coherent Market Insights.